A White Orvieto From Central Italy

Orvieto, the best-known wine of Umbria...

The Cliffs of Orvieto

This will be three inexpensive Italian wines in a row. First a rosé, then a red, so why not a white? Umbria is in central Italy. The wine reviewed comes from Orvieto, a town near the Latium border and not that far from the Tuscan border. I think you can guess which of the neighboring regions is known for wine. The Orvieto Classico area has chalky soil so we may be facing a highly acidic wine that tastes of minerals. This particular wine is based on four local grapes, only one of which has (sometimes) a fine reputation.

Whether or not you like this wine, Umbria and the town of Orvieto are well worth visiting. The site is absolutely spectacular, sitting on an enormous plateau of volcanic rock. They didn’t need the typical high walls to defend the town from invaders. If you go, make sure to take the underground tour and enjoy the local cuisine. You can try the local wines or order Tuscan wines such as Vino Nobile de Montepulciano which is produced just over the regional border. I just tasted such a wine, but you won’t find it among my $10 wine reviews.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Ruffino Orvieto Classico DOC 2007 12 % alcohol about $9.50

Let’s start with the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Pale straw color; citrus and apple fruit aromas and flavors; light-bodied, clean and crisp a hint of almond in the finish. Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled as an aperitif or with deep fried calamari. And now for my review.

At the first sip the wine was mild tasting with soft acidity. It lingered. The first pairing was with a Middle Eastern specialty, Kube or Kibbe, ground beef in crushed Bulghar wheat jackets served with a peppery sauce containing crushed tomatoes. The wine was appley and somewhat sweet with pleasing acidity. So far there’s not a lot to say about this wine.

The second pairing included a barbecued chicken breast with a caramelized sauce, potato salad, and a Moroccan-style tomato, garlic, and pimento salsa that wasn’t very spicy. The sweetness of the Orvieto blended well with the sweetness of the chicken. With the other dishes the wine lost its sweetness and stopped just short of feathery. It picked up more strength with the acidic salsa.

The final meal included a mushroom omelet, an overly mayonnaised grilled artichoke dip, and Japanese rice crackers. The wine started out light and not particularly flavorful. It got better developing some notes of apple. Even though the artichoke dip was mild tasting it cut across the wine. For dessert I enjoyed a high-quality French style lemon pie with a buttery crust. The pie was delicious but totally flattened the Orvieto.

In the presence of the first cheese, a Mozzarella , the wine picked up some intensity was did not have much flavor. With a yellow Cheddar I tasted pale apples, but only in the background.

Final verdict. I don’t think that I would buy this wine again, it was simply too forgettable. On the other hand, some of the pairings were OK. See if you can get it at a better price. Or better yet, see if you can get a better wine.

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel

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