A Classical Georgian White

Did you ever hear of Rkatsiteli grapes ?...

Rkatsiteli Grapes

If memory serves me correctly, this is our first Georgian wine. Teliani Valley winemakers was established in 1997. At least one of the buildings dates back an additional century and was built for a prince by decree of a Romanov. Talking about history, archeologists have found clay vessels dating back some five thousand years that contain Rkatsiteli grapes, the ones that form this wine. Even if you or I have never heard of these grapes, in the days of the Soviet Union they may have been the most widely planted white grape. These grapes are also found in the United States, in particular in the Finger Lakes district of New York State. This particular wine comes from the Kakheti region of southeast Georgia. Kakheti is Georgia’s major wine growing area; it is divided into about 25 microregions. Rkatsiteli grapes are often used for making sweet wine. Today’s companion wine is a moderately priced Gewurztraminer from a choice region of the Niagara Valley in Ontario, Canada.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Teliani Valley Tsinandali 2007 13.0% alcohol about $10

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Description: Georgia's history of winemaking stretches into the distant past. In fact, it may be the very cradle of wine production. This attractive white wine comes from the country's Kakheti region and is made exclusively from the Rkatsiteli grape, which distinguishes it from a traditional Georgian blend that also uses the indigenous Mtsvane variety. Aged in oak, it displays a bright straw color, fruity bouquet and a soft refined taste. Enjoy as a sipper or with lighter chicken or seafood dishes. And now for my review.

At the first sips the wine displayed bright acidity with a pleasant lemon taste. The initial meal started with sesame seed puff pastry stuffed with spinach that brought force to the wine. Then I enjoyed an omelet with lots of chilies. The wine showed good acidity and lemon but also a bit of soap. The accompanying artichoke and garlic tomato salsa definitely muted the Tsinandali. With Greek Kalamata olives all that remained was a shadow of the lemon and acidity. With cantaloupe slices the acidity was present, as was the lemony soap. Honeydew intensified the wine.

The next meal was chicken baked in soy sauce, agave nectar, and plums. The wine had bright acidity and lime. The plums raised the acidity level, but the combination was not unpleasant. With fresh pineapple the wine was smoky and not acidic.

My final meal was a boxed eggplant parmiagana. The wine was sweet and tasted of green apples and lemons. Its acidity nicely paired with the dish’s tomatoes. Dessert was a vanilla ice cream bar coated in high quality chocolate. At first the wine weakened but it came back nicely.

Prior to the traditional two cheeses I paired this white wine with Matjes herring. The wine’s acidity was almost puckering, and I tasted apples. The first cheese was a usually bland brick but since this one had been around for quite some time it was somewhat strong. With the wine the apple taste intensified and there was a little soap. The second cheese was a Muenster, the soap came close to taking over and the wine’s acidity was harsh.

Final verdict. I will not buy this wine again. I don’t like soapy tastes. And many of the non-soapy pairings weren’t very good. By the way, this wine is often more expensive than $10, all the less reason to buy it.

Access the companion wine A $15 Canadian Gewurztraminer

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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