A Hungarian Pinot Grigio

A white wine from near Budapest...

Baron Lazare de Schwendi

First we missed this column because we reviewed an upscale wine and the best companion wine came in at about $12 and so was reviewed in another column. Then came a heat wave so we switched to beer for the interim. I don’t review beer, but my favorite is the Czech Pilsner Urquell. And now it’s back to wine. Today’s wine is an interesting combination, a Hungarian Pinot Grigio. It’s named for Baron Lazare de Schwendi who according to legend brought Tokay vines from Hungary into Alsace back in 1565. Just so you don’t make a mistake, these are not the vines that produce Hungary’s sometimes world-class sweet Tokaji wine. I don’t recall ever tasting a Hungarian Pinot Grigio. I do recall tasting a Hungarian Tokaji that I preferred to a French Sauternes, but that’s another story. This wine was produced in the Pozmand region of Etyek, Hungary’s youngest viticultural area in the eastern part of the country. The locals claim that it has stunning landscape, and is known for excellent wines including sparkling wines. You might want to check out the local Cellar Festival in mid-May. Today’s companion wine comes from Austria’s signature grape, Grüner Veltliner in a moderate price range.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Baron Lazare de Schwendi Pinot Grigio 2008 11.9% alcohol about $10

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Hungary is starting to make some exciting Pinot Grigios. As a result, wines such as this melon-, pear-, citrus- and floral-scented one are finding favor. Dry and flavorful, this wine finishes crisp and very refreshing. Enjoy it with steamed mussels or clams. (VINTAGES panel, June 2009). And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine’s acidity was dominant. It seemed thin but refreshing. The first meal centered on a meatless patty made with textured vegetable protein. The acidity was now round and pleasant; the wine’s lemon stepped up. French fried eggplant sticks rendered the Pinot Grigio refreshing. A high-quality ice cream bar with a thick chocolate coating essentially gutted the wine.

My next meal was an omelet brimming with chilies. This wine was now excessively acidic and did not have a lot of flavor. Fresh avocado made it rounder. The wine lengthened in the presence of roasted eggplant brimming with garlic. And its delicate lemon flavor increased when consumed with a fresh tomato. Dessert was Scottish shortbread with lots of butter (32%) that intensified this Pinot Grigio’s sweetness.

My final meal was a broiled Atlantic salmon filet marinated and basted in an agave nectar sauce and then broiled and blackened. The wine now possessed lemony acidity. It displayed a tinge of sweetness when it met up with lemon slices. When married with rice and cold beets (really the beets, not the rice) it was crisp and refreshing, The accompanying green beans in tomato sauce rendered this Hungarian more acidic.

The first cheese was a mild provolone. The wine was now light, almost thin, with balanced acidity. With a fairly tasty yellow cheddar it gained in intensity to help it keep up with the stronger tasting cheese.

Final verdict. This is a close call, but I’d rather taste something new. It wasn’t quite good enough.

Access the companion wine An Austrian Grüner Veltliner (Under $15)

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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