A Native Sicilian Grillo

Grillo wine from Sicily? That's the grape used for fine Marsala...

Feudo Arancio Grillo Wine

From time to time we get to review Italian whites in this column. Some, such as the recently reviewed Chardonnay, come from international grape varieties. Others come from Italian grapes such as Gargenega in Soave wine. This is the first time that I have tasted the Grillo grape which comes from Sicily. Grillo is a favored component for the famous Sicilian dessert wine, Marsala, that is sort of making a comeback. It’s been around for a long time; it was used in the sweet Mamertino wine of Messina, a favorite of Julius Caesar. This winery seems quite interesting. In homage to Sicilian tradition it was built in the baglio (rustic villa) style. But the equipment is modern, and the vineyards are monitored by computer. Cantine Mezzacorona is green. They desalinize seawater. And do most of their stuff underground to save on air conditioning.

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Wine Reviewed
Feudo Arancio Grillo IGT 2008 13% alcohol about $10

Let’s start with the marketing materials. Tasting Note : Pale straw green color; aromas of wet stone, citrus and light herb; dry, light to medium body, with fresh acidity, clean citrus flavors and floral notes. Serving Suggestion : Enjoy with seafood, pasta with vegetables or white meats. And now for my review.

The first sips were somewhat sweet and citrusy. My initial meal involved a Middle Eastern specialty, kube also called kibbe, ground beef in crushed bulgur jackets cooked in a sauce with Swiss Chard. The wine’s acidity stepped up to match the dish’s acidity and the citrus remained. The wine was light. The dessert fruit juice candy weakened the Grillo but it remained pleasant.

The second meal was a boxed eggplant parmiagiana. The wine became quite acidic. I tasted apples that were almost ripe, and slightly sweet.

The final meal started with schmaltz herring packed in oil instead of the more usual vinegar. The herring almost succeeded in taking away the wine’s acidity, all the while giving it a nutty flavor. The main meal was an omelet with plenty of brown mushrooms and chilies. The Grillo was light and refreshingly acidic. I got images of a terrace in Italy.

The first cheese was a Swiss. The wine became oily and round. This was a good combination. Then came a goat’s milk cheese with roasted garlic. This wine was elegant; really a great combination.

Final verdict. I probably would buy this wine again. It wasn’t bad at all. And I really know which white to accompany goat cheese with roasted garlic. I am tempted to give this winemaker’s other offerings a try.

Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Nearly Weekly Review Of $15 Wine - A Better Italian Soave

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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