As you may know, I am a big fan of Italian wine, especially but not exclusively, reds. This is not my first really inexpensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. I remember a similarly priced one from March, 2006 that kept me from purchasing a potential twin for several years. Today’s winemaker dates back to 1812, and they were an official supplier to the local bigwigs. Their property is about 4-5 hours drive from Rome, but their website suggests taking the bus. Dragani owns the biggest private bottling plant in Abruzzo. In case you didn’t know, Abruzzi is a major wine producing region of Italy. This region could go very far wine wise. The vines are often planted on foothills that roll to the sea. There is a great combination of mountain and maritime air. Alas, in southern Abruzzi the soil tends to be fertile. But the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape doesn’t seem to change much with high yields. And its wines don’t change with age. Frankly, $7 seems a fine price if… Today’s companion wine is a red from the much more prestigious region of the Piedmont at well over twice the price.
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Ruby and purple hints; ripe fruit aroma, blackcherry with a touch of coffee; full fruity, grape flavor, soft tannins in medium length finish, good quality. Serving Suggestion: Great with lasagna or cheese burgers. And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was thick and red. Not so bad, but short at first and then medium length. The initial meal was chili on rice. This wine became more acidic. I tasted dark cherries. There were no tannins.
My next meal centered on fried liver. This Montepulciano was somewhat thin. It tasted of black cherries and a bit of pepper. By the way, this liver was cooked without pepper. When consumed with sliced cucumbers and tomatoes, the wine became more forceful and acidic.
My final meal included stovetop chicken thighs cooked in salsa. This Italian red’s response was refreshing acidity, light tannins, and black plums. With okra in tomato and garlic sauce and kasha (buckwheat groats) the wine picked up power. The fruit juice candy dessert shaved the wine; it became uni-dimensional.
Prior to the cheese tasting I enjoyed some matjes herring. The Montepulciano was muted, especially at first. It had a light taste of oak. With a sharp yellow cheddar the wine tasted of black cherries and was slightly sweet. It wasn’t very present. With a tasty Swiss cheese it almost disappeared.
Final verdict. $7, what do you want? It wasn’t that bad. But I’d rather try something else than repeat. Once again, for $7 you can do a lot worse. I have.
Access the companion wine A Barbera d'AlbaLevi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com
and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to italian travel
www.travelitalytravel.com
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