The Languedoc region of southwestern France has been defined as up and coming for quite some time. In fact, in many cases, it has already come; it frequently offers good value in comparison to wines coming from better-known and pricier regions of France such as Bordeaux and Alsace. Viognier is a white grape that came close to disappearing several decades ago and is making its way back. You should really give it a try. We have. Not that long ago we reviewed a similarly priced Viognier, also from Languedoc, but made by a cooperative. Today’s wine comes from a third generation winemaker who did his training at the University of Tarragona on the Mediterranean Sea southwest of Barcelona. It carries the not very prestigious (is it up and coming?) Vin de Pays d’Oc appellation. The companion wine is a moderately priced Viognier from the same region that carries this appellation and the name of Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “Description: The winery grafted the Viognier on to pre-existing Cinsault rootstock in 1980. Medium yellow-gold, and offering peach skin, mineral, lime, and apricot tones with a lifting white flower note. Dry and crisp mid-palate with a lush, rounding fruit. Medium bodied with a lingering finish. Pair this with a spiced seafood dish.“ And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was strong with good length. The first meal centered on chicken breast cubes fried with black pepper, cumin, and Mediterranean spices. The wine was long and smoky. It offered some of that classic honeysuckle taste and was metallic. When it met the accompanying fried onions and brown mushrooms this Viognier presented a bit of caramel that strengthened over time. The fresh pineapple dessert stole this libation’s acidity but some caramel remained.
The focus of my next meal was zucchini pancakes that included onions and carrots. Now the wine was long and slightly sweet. It tasted of honeysuckle and white peaches. In the presence of string beans in an onion and crushed tomato sauce, this Viognier was somewhat feathery.
My final meal was an omelet with Mediterranean spices. This drink was round and slightly sweet but provided little fruit. When paired with a relatively spicy salsa, the Viognier responded with some citrus and some smoke. With a slice of chocolate cheesecake this wine was metallic and tasted of honeysuckle.
The last round started with Matjes herring. In response the wine was feathery, nicely acidic, and long. Swiss cheese brought citrus to the fore, accompanied by the taste of some smoke. In the presence of goat’s milk cheese containing figs, the Viognier offered lightly burnt sugar and acidity in the background.
Final verdict. I would buy this wine again if I could get it for $11 or $12 as promised on the Internet. But since I have to pay over $15, it won’t make my list.
Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - A Baron Rothschild Viognier
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com
and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel
www.travelitalytravel.com
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