A Pinot Gris From Alsace, France

A pedestrian white grape and a fine, French wine region...

Willm Pinot Gris

Let’s take a look at a potential dilemma – I usually like Alsatian wines (even if they are inclined to be somewhat pricey). And I tend not to like Pinot Gris wines. So what about combining the two? I did review an Alsatian Pinot Gris but it has been quite a while. Today’s wine comes from the Willm winery founded in 1896. It’s located on the Alsace Wine Road some 22 miles (about 35 kilometers) south of Strasbourg. In 1930 right after that affliction called Prohibition ended, Willm became the first Alsatian wine producer to export to the US. They make a range of pricey sweet wines and a sparkling wine made by the traditional method known as Champagne you know where. By the way, today’s wine is Kosher for Passover. The companion wine is a slightly less expensive Australian Pinot Grigio.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Willm Pinot Gris 2009 Appellation Alsace Contrôlée 14% alcohol about $12

There were no marketing materials so let’s start by quoting the back label. “Established in Barr since 1896, Willm owns a Domaine which includes the Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr and the famed Clos Gaensbroennel. ‘I can’t but privilege elegance and smoothness while making Willm wines with all the love and the passion of my craft. Opulent, full-bodied and heady, this Pinot Gris is lovely as an aperitif and with roasts and foie gras.’“ And now for my review.

Willm Vineyards

At the first sips this wine was complex presenting burnt sugar, fine acidity, good length and balance. Japanese rice crackers increased its sweetness. The first meal consisted of a boxed eggplant parmigiana. In response the wine was very long, tasting of burnt sugar and fine acidity. The fruit juice candy gutted the wine but there was burnt sugar in the background.

My next meal centered on a honey-garlic barbecued chicken breast. Now this wine was very long with some darkness. I am getting tired of its burnt sugar taste but its sweetness was good. When it met the accompanying potatoes roasted in chicken fat this wine came off as it did before but salt accompanied that burnt sugar taste. The other side dish was a salsa/salad containing tomatoes, onions, green peppers, jalapenos, lime juice, cilantro, and more. Now the wine was somewhat ethereal. Can you guess which taste the fresh strawberries brought back?

My final meal was an omelet with Mediterranean spices and peas. The libation responded with its usual taste but it was somewhat rounder. In the presence of multigrain tortilla chips accompanied by lots of that spicy salsa the wine weakened. An arugula lettuce salad doused with off the shelf red wine (the label didn’t specify which wine) vinaigrette sweetened this Pinot Gris. Fresh blueberries rendered this libation elegant, but that same old boring taste resurfaced.

The last round started with Matjes herring. The wine offered refreshing acidity but no fruit. When paired with farmer’s cheese the wine’s acidity lightened; it offered some smoke. In the presence of goat’s milk cheese containing figs, the wine was overwhelmed, at least at first.

Final verdict. I won’t buy this wine again unless I’m craving for a burnt sugar taste. The worst is that the $12 price is the Internet price, but I had to pay a full $10 more. I don’t feel like giving this producer another chance, not at those prices.

Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - An Australian Pinot Grigio Revisisted

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

Feel free to reprint this entire article which must include the resource box