An Israeli Viognier

Have you heard of Viognier?...

Galil Mountain Viognier

We are lucky that we can review Viognier wines. This grape almost went extinct, growing only in the Rhône Valley of southeastern France where it starred in some fancy wines. Now this variety grows in many countries. We have already reviewed French and Chilean Viogniers. This will be our first one from Israel, produced by a winery that we have already tasted, so to speak. The Galil Mountain Winery is a joint venture with a local kibbutz or collective farm. This area of northern Israel was doing grapes two thousand years ago. The winery is committed to the environment and can process a million bottles a year, 90% of which come from red grapes. Their website provides extensive information about the wines. For example, their Viognier was made from grapes, 60% of which were cold fermented in stainless steel and 40% in new French oak barrels. The juice then aged for 6 months on yeast lees. Today’s companion wine is a Sicilian Grecanico at about two-thirds the price.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Galil Mountain Kosher for Passover Viognier 2009 15% alcohol about $15

There were no marketing materials so let’s start by quoting the back label. “Region: The higher elevations of the Upper Galilee, the northern part of the Galilee viticultural area. Grapes: Viognier. Style: Extremely aromatic with perfume scents, ripe apricot, nectarine, and a hint of oak. Well balanced with delicate acidity, medium body, and rewarding finished. Aging: 2-3 years from time of harvest.” And now for my review.

Galil Mountain Vineyards

At the first sips this wine was subtle, yet mouth filling. It was refreshing and slightly metallic. The initial meal centered on a baked chicken breast with a medley of dried herbs including chilies, basil leaves, and parsley leaves. The wine was almost syrupy and somewhat oily. It had good length and refreshing acidity. The side dishes of brown Basmati rice and green beans with crushed tomatoes gave this wine bracing acidity. It was mouth filling and tasted of white peaches. The first dessert, fresh cantaloupe, rendered the Viognier long and semisweet. In response to the second dessert, fresh pineapple, the wine had a touch of caramel, slightly burnt caramel, with great length.

My next meal began with Wasabi-less Japanese rice crackers. Now the wine tasted of honeysuckle. It was sweetish and had good length. The main dish was a boxed eggplant parmagiana. The Viognier was metallic over the honeysuckle and offered pleasant acidity. Fresh strawberries rendered this wine subtle. It was long with some caramel. Chocolate truffles overpowered the wine, but its shadow was long with a glimpse of caramel.

My final meal was a mushroom omelet perked up by chili peppers, parsley flakes, dried basil leaves, and black pepper. The Viognier was honeyed tasting of golden apples. It was light, yet deep, smoky, and long. In the presence of zesty guacamole the wine was even longer and quite round with good fruit. When it met a slice of chocolate cheesecake over a cookie crumb crust, the wine’s smokiness intensified and I tasted the promised apricots.

The tastings ended with two cheeses. When paired with marbled Cheddar cheese this Viognier was long and lightly acidic. It offered some caramel and had nice length. Upon meeting a goat’s milk cheese coated with garlic and fine herbs the wine presented itself as before but more subtly.

Final verdict. I liked this wine and would buy it again. And I’ll let you in on a secret; I’m not that big a fan of Viognier. Usually.

Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - A Grecanico From Sicily

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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