The Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy is well-known for much of its white wine. But it also produces a lot of red wine and surprisingly has been doing Merlot for 200 years. The Di Lenardo family has been in the wine business for over 130 years. They own four vineyards comprising some 150 hectares (about 375 acres) and produce about 600 thousand bottles a year. Their website describes yearly vintages reaching back to 1997. Today’s companion wine is a Merlot from the neighboring Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia that I bought at half the price.
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “Description: Bright ruby in the glass with blackberry, cherry, and cedar aromas with some mushroom and black olive notes. The palate is dry and very well balanced and supple with good fruit and a medium-long finish. Enjoy with hearty winter fare, such as rabbit stew.” And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was dark, well-balanced, and long. offered dark plums. The initial meal centered on slow-cooked beef ribs. In response the wine’s acidity was sour and harsh but I did taste black cherries. The side dish of potatoes softened the acidity somewhat, but it was still harsh. I tasted some chocolate. Dill pickles intensified the chocolate and the wine was no longer harsh. (Maybe the wine’s exposure to air that removed this objectionable quality.) The Merlot did not mesh with spicy Calabria olives but itself became spicy and round.
My next meal’s main dish was a honey and garlic barbecued chicken breast. Now this Merlot responded with a fine balance of acidity, tannins, and length. It offered plums and blackberries. This wine dealt very nicely with the delicious fat in one of my favorite side dishes, potatoes roasted in chicken fat; there were blackberries and tobacco in the background. When this Veneto libation was paired with an oriental salad consisting of tomatoes, tomato puree, sweet pimento, hot peppers, and garlic it was somewhat muted but the two acidities were in lockstep. Dessert consisted of fresh strawberries that imparted light acidity and a chocolate taste to this wine.
My final meal began with wasabi-less Japanese rice crackers. Now the wine was round and slightly spicy (as were the crackers). Then came the main dish, a boxed baked ziti siciliano that I slathered with grated romano cheese. The Merlot deepened; I got light tannins, berries, and chocolate.
The tastings ended with two cheeses. In the presence of a goat’s milk cheese coated with garlic and fine herbs this Veneto libation was mouth-filling with pleasant, round acidity. The excessive salt in a light feta cheese fought against the wine, which fought back with salty fruit. Not many wines pair well with salt.
Final verdict. I would definitely buy this wine again but would let it breathe a bit before serving and not count on dill pickles to remove any harshness. I am sorry that no other wines from this producer are available in my area.
Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - A Veneto, Italy Merlot
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com
and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel
www.travelitalytravel.com
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