A Fine Tuscany White
A white wine from Tuscany?...Tuscan San Gimignano
Tuscany brings lots to mind including the tourist charms of Florence, Asissi, and other sites too numerous to mention here, world class art and architecture, absolutely great steaks (that may come as a surprise), and some pricey red wine that’s off the charts including Super Tuscans, wines that blew a hole as wide as a Hummer in Italy’s official wine classifications. But white wine? Does Tuscany come to mind for white wine? Maybe it should. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is Tuscany’s most highly rated white. Of course we just indicated that official Italian wine classifications, perhaps even more than in other countries, leave something to be desired.
This wine comes from central Tuscany, not far west of Siena and of the Chianti Classico wine region. The property was acquired in 1964 by Riccardo Falchini whose Florentine family has been making wine since the early 1600s, serving the Medicis. It matured in small oak casks for four to six months.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed
Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008 12.0% alcohol about $14
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Description : 'Vernaccia di San Gimignano is Tuscany's premier white wine. It comes from the famous and ancient village of San Gimignano whose renaissance towers (one was measured by the height of one's tower, so to speak) were the skyscrapers of their day. The wine is made from a local grape called Vernaccia and tends to be soft and full with pleasant complimentary acidity.' (www.tastings.com) Falchini estate's 2008 version is crisp, dry and aromatic, with ripe citrus character. And now for my reactions.
At the first sips the wine was multi-layered, mouth filling, and lemony. Its first pairing was with smoked rainbow trout filet (not as good as it may sound) and a grated red cabbage salad. With the fish this wine displayed balanced, light acidity. It was refreshing, subtle, and long. The cabbage salad cut the lemon somewhat but the wine was feathery. There were two desserts. The fresh pineapple weakened this Tuscany white but it still had some power. When paired with oversweet chocolate peanut butter candy the wine had a bit of lemon and a bit of acid.
The next meal involved a boxed eggplant parmigiana slathered with grated Parmesan cheese. The wine was delicious. It’s fine acidity meshed well with the tomatoes’ acidity and gave a subtle lemon flavor. The dessert of a frozen chocolate pie with a buttery crust weakened the wine, but it was still present with a touch of lemon.
My final meal was composed of an omelet with fresh tomatoes. This Tuscan showed light acidity and was long and pleasant, but there wasn’t a lot of fruit. In the face of fresh tomatoes its acidity stepped up. The side of grilled artichoke dip that tasted more of mayonnaise than of the grill muted the wine but it was still long.
I ended the tastings (but not the bottle) with two local cheeses. The pairing with a marbled cheddar was one fine wine pairing. And with the provolone the wine’s elegance manifested itself. It was light but…
Final verdict. This wine is a winner. And the price is right. Be careful, the word has it that many of the Vernaccia di San Gimignano aren’t worth their top of the line DOCG status. But I thought this was one fine wine at the price.
Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - A Lazio Italian ChardonnayAbout the Author
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com
and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel
www.travelitalytravel.com
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