A Biodynamic Chianti

Can we get a fine Chianti at this price? ...

Burchino Biodynamic Chianti

Burchino Biodynamic Chianti

As you may know, Chianti carries the top of the line Italian wine designation DOCG whose G stands for guarantita. Some wag said there are only two guarantees in life, death and taxes. Believe you me, the G in DOCG is not a close third. Tenuta de Burchino sits on 42 hectares (about 100 acres) in Tuscanyís Pisan hills where the soil is rich in fossil cells. The mother company Castellani dates back to 1903, controlling if not owning over 1000 hectares (now that I showed you, do the math) in five Italian vineyards. Their web site talks a lot about natural viticulture. This wine was produced with biodynamic methods. The companion wine is an Italian Sangiovese, Chiantiís main grape, that costs about two thirds as much and is Kosher to boot.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Tenuta di Burchino Chianti DOCG, 2007 12 % alcohol about $15

In the absence of marketing materials letís start by quoting the back label. ďVinified from grapes cultivated with biodynamic Demeter certified, in the ancient vineyard of Casanova.Ē And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was mouth filling with a long, woody taste. The initial meal was a spicy whole wheat, no cheese lasagna made with tomatoes, ground meat, mushrooms, and corn. In response the Chiantiís acidity stepped, and darkened. It remained long. When paired with a red pepper, red cabbage, tomato, and cucumber salad the drink became excessively acidic offering red cherries and a burnt taste. Really hot Yemeni green jalapeno slathered on the lasagna gave the liquid additional power and nice acidity. I tasted strawberries.

The second meal centered on a baked salmon filet that had been marinated in agave and then coated with sesame seeds. In response our Italian friend provided fine acidity and balanced tannins, and some chocolate and tobacco. When I paired this juice with red and white steamed quinoa it responded with dark cherries and was nicely round. Steamed broccoli made the libation musky accompanied by dark roundness. Orange flavored milk chocolate muted the wine, providing a mere tinge of tobacco in the background.

The final mealís focus was a dry, garlicky barbecued chicken breast to which my glassís response was a tobacco taste, a burnt taste, and dark cherries. It was rich but too sweet. When paired with a commercial potato salad including pickles, the Chianti thickened and was nicely balanced. Its acidity was just right. A commercial Turkish salad containing onions, tomato paste, red peppers, and spices was too powerful for the libation.

Final verdict. This is the best Chianti that I have had in a while. But it just made it to my buy again list.

Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wines - A Kosher Italian Sangiovese

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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