An Austrian Semi Dry Red

Do you like your reds somewhat sweet?...

Hafner Late Harvest Wine

I am not a big fan of sweet or semi-sweet reds but once in a while… Today’s offering comes from the Lake Neusiedl region near the Hungarian border some 33 miles (50 kilometers) east of Vienna. Hafner is the first major producer of Austrian ice wine. Th e Blaufrankish red grape grows in Austria, elsewhere in Central Europe, and, perhaps surprisingly, in Washington state, where it is called Lemberger. This name comes from the Austrian city of Lemberg and not the pre-World War I Austro-Hungarian city of Lemberg, now the Ukranian city of Lviv. Under the name of Eger, this grape is the major component in the well-known Hungarian wine, Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood). Some people call it “The Pinot Noir of the East.” Crossing it with St. Laurent engenders Zweigelt, Austria’s most widely grown red, recently reviewed in these pages. Our companion wine is a central Italian red blend costing a few dollars less.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Hafner Velvet Late Harvest Blaufrankish Semi-Dry Red KP 11 % alcohol about $13

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “Description : Blaufrankish is one of the most important red grape varieties in Austria. This version is harvested late to achieve extra ripeness adding a touch of sweetness to this robust wine. Packed with dark cherry and spice with a soft velvety texture, this wine is Kosher for Passover but non-Mevushal.” And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was long and not excessively sweet offering light acidity and tannins. Japanese rice crackers stepped up its acidity. The initial meal consisted of boxed Baked Ziti Siciliano embellished with lots of grated Parmesan cheese. Our Austrian friend was pleasantly sweet. I tasted oak and cherries. When paired with fresh strawberries this wine virtually disappeared.

My next meal centered on slow cooked beef. In response the libation presented dark plums. It was pleasantly sweet, if that’s what you want. The side dish of potatoes at first stepped up this liquid’s acidity, which soon returned to normal. Adding lots of Louisiana hot sauce to the meat spiced up the wine nicely. When paired with a salad composed of cucumbers, tomatoes, pecans, sliced carrots, and broccoli sprouts, the drink was somewhat flattened and its sweetness lightened. Homemade apple cake with carob chips muted the wine.

The final meal featured commercially barbecued beef ribs in a sweet and sour sauce. The libation was sweet but did not meld with the meat’s sweetness and was unable to handle its fat. Interestingly enough the wine regained its strength when paired with quinoa. A fresh tomato stopped the drink’s acidity but brought out the chocolate. With fruit juice candy this wine virtually disappeared.

Final verdict. I won’t be buying this wine again. But if you like sweet reds it is definitely a step, a giant step, up from Concords.

Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wines - A Red Umbria, Italy Blend

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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