Most of our reviewed wines are not Kosher. But this is only the second time that such status appears in the article title. Why? In part to help dispel the misconception that all Israeli wines are Kosher. The word Gat is Hebrew for a wine press such as shown in the pre-Roman version below. Harel Vineyards is situated in the foothills of the Judean Mountains, a great wine making site for some three millennia. They exploit almost 50 acres (about 19 hectares). Their first wines were the 2001 vintage and they produce about 50 thousand bottles a year. The companion wine is a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that costs one fifth as much. It too isnít Kosher. By the way, I hope you arenít upset that I broke my $50 minimum for a wine featured in this column. Iím not.
Letís start by quoting the marketing materials.. ďDescription : Clos de Gat is a play on words as Clos is the French word for a walled vineyard and Gat is the Hebrew name for an ancient wine press. Tasting Note : As always, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (60%, 30% and 10% respectively ), showing full-bodied and reflecting its 18 months in new oak with gentle influences of spicy oak and abundant but soft, gently caressing tannins. Impenetrably dark garnet in color, showing black fruits on the nose, opening in the glass to reveal currant and blackberry fruits and, from mid-palate on, hints of blueberries. Long and generous with tannins rising with the fruits on the finish. Approachable now but best 2013-2019. Score - 94. (Daniel Rogov, at the haaretz web site, Feb. 3, 2011).Ē
Before I go to my review, I would like once again to pay tribute to Israelís top wine reviewer, Daniel Rogov now deceased. When the noted film critic Robert Ebert died, I couldnít help but think about Daniel who was in the same league. But as for film, not everyone agrees about wine. Thatís part of the fun. And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was subtle and yet powerful. It had medium length and was multilayered. The initial meal centered on store-bought barbecued, excessively chewy overcooked beef ribs. Chocolate came to the fore in my glass. This liquid was sweeter than Iíd like. A red cabbage and mayonnaise salad darkened the juice. I got dark cherries but didnít like the sugar. In response to my slathering fiery Yemeni green jalapeno sauce on the meat, the libationís sweetness remained but some good oak emerged. When wedded to very tasty homemade garlicky, oily roasted eggplant, this blend started off with great acidity and nothing else. Then I noted that its tannins were balanced. In response to a square of Swiss dark bittersweet chocolate our Israeli friend remained strong and long and came up with some good oak.
The second meal focused on a paprika dusted barbecued chicken breast. Now my costly buddy was very long, offering chocolate and a great balance between acidity and tannins. It was multilayered with dark cherries. Iím sorry to report that it was once again too sweet. Pairing with zesty guacamole slightly flattened these fermented grapes. Fruit juice candy made my wine less, a lot less, in fact just a bit of dark cherries.
The final meal involved a boxed cheese pizza (I suspect that the box was almost as tasty as the pizza) that I liberally doused with grated Parmesan cheese to no avail. The juice responded with caramel and vanilla. This pairing excised the excessive sweetness from my glass. It was round and had good length, great oak (Iím not usually a fan), and tobacco and was so so long. It is hard to imagine such a delicious wine with such as tasteless meal. Fresh strawberries imparted a nice oak and tobacco taste to the wine that did end up muted.
Final verdict. I will not buy this wine again. Ever. As Mark Twain said, ďIt is difference of opinion that makes horse races.Ē
Access the companion wine Yet Another Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (Under $10)
One additional point: We would love to hear and publish your opinion
about this wine.
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com
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