An Organic Rheinhessen, Germany Spätlese

Baron Heyl Label

This organic wine comes from a very interesting producer in the Rheinhessen area of southwestern Germany. Their estate dates back to the mid-Sixteenth Century (unlike many German wine estates, the property has not been in the same family for centuries). One of its historic proudly produced Germany’s first Sekt (sparkling wine) way back in 1833. In the 1970s the present owner shifted to ecological viticulture in the 1970s and has never looked back. This wine estate is on the Rhine and boasts steep slopes and red slate soil. So you may look forward to a fine wine. If you go to Herrnsheim website you can even find a harvest journal, in English. Remember, Riesling is the key grape variety in these parts and Spätlese is a fairly sweet wine.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Heyl zu Herrnsheim Niersteiner “ Baron Heyl” Riesling Spätlese 2004 10.5% alcohol about $16

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Simple, slightly herbal nose. Lovely presence on the palate though, with some good exotic fruits. Decent weight. Correct acidity. It has structure. This is a wine for the cellar; needs ten years at least. Very good. 15.5/20 (May 2005) And now for my review (P.S. I didn’t wait ten years).

The first sips were dynamite, a great combination of sweetness and acidity. Its first pairing was with an omelet accompanied by wasabi rice crackers and babaganoush (eggplant with too much mayonnaise). The omelet brought out the fruit which intensified with the rice crackers. The eggplant didn’t change things, but who needs changes? With Ben and Jerry’s chocolate fudge brownie ice cream honey came to the forefront. The wine remained long and had very pleasant acidity.

The next meal consisted of chicken hamburgers with a Moroccan style tomato, pepper, and garlic sauce. The Spätlese was mouth-filling with some caramel. The wine’s honeyed sweetness was a good match for the sugar in the tomato sauce. acidity softened and there was lots of citrus. When faced with the side of brocolli and oat bran pancakes the wine mantained its power. The caramel intensified and I could taste the oak.

My final meal started with sweet and sour barbecued chicken wings. This wine, as always, showed a great balance of honey and acidity. It cut right into the fat that characterized the side of potatoes roasted in chicken fat. The main dish was a honey-garlic barbecued chicken breast. The Spätlese was quite long with delicious caramel. I could taste the toasted insides of the oak barrels and I’m not complaining. With fresh strawberries the wine was very long and had lots of soft caramel.

I ended the bottle with two local cheeses. With a yellow cheddar the wine remained delicious but it was as if the cheese wasn’t there. With a stronger tasting asiago cheese the wine only gained in intensity. Why do I say only?

Final verdict. This wine was great. I feel like buying a case, and seeing how it evolves year after year.

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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