A Piedmont, Italy Biodynamic White

Cortese Grapes

The Piedmont region of northern Italy is especially known for red wine, such as Barolo that is often considered Italy’s finest wine. Today’s wine is 100% Cortese, a white grape from part of the Piedmont fairly close to the Mediterranean. It was considered to be one of Italy’s finest white wine way back in the 1970s. Gavi holds Italy’s finest wine designation, DOCG, where the G stands for guaranteed. But this designation is no guarantee. Don’t expect to get one of Italy’s best whites, and organic to boot, at this relatively modest price.

Before reviewing this wine I want to mention a policy change. Starting now I will usually taste two wines with the same meals and cheese. One will be a $10 wine and the other will cost more, perhaps a lot more. My wine cabinet is brimming and this is the only way that I can manage to taste and review so many wines that interest me.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
La Raia Gavi DOCG 2007 12.8% alcohol about $17

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Description: La Raia has been certified organic since 2005 and certified biodynamic as of the 2007 vintage. It is one of only 23 wineries or vineyards in Italy with this certification. Their eco-friendly techniques result in a Gavi that is crisp and fresh with flavors that hold a strong connection to the land. Enjoy as an aperitif or with lighter seafood dishes. Our Quality Assurance Laboratory has determined that this wine contains 21 mg/L of free sulphur. And now for my review.

With the first sips the wine was slightly sweet and quite long. It was almost feathery. The first meal was a chicken leg baked in a soy, garlic, and black pepper sauce with potatoes and onions. There was a side of green beans in tomato sauce and another side of okra in a similar sauce but with ginger as well. The wine enveloped the chicken and had no trouble cutting the grease. It was delicate but it was definitely there. The okra’s ginger made it stronger.

The second meal started with Matjes herring. The Gavi was round with a touch of sweetness. With the omelet the wine was almost unctuous, and light but pleasant. But when it faced roasted, unskinned eggplant with plenty of oil and garlic, the wine was overwhelmed. It fought back by presenting notes of gooseberry. I finished the meal with a high-quality French style lemon pie with a buttery crust. The Gavi was fleeting and yet long.

The final meal was a vegetarian box called baked ziti siciliano with eggplant and mozzarella cheese. I slathered on lots grated Parmesan cheese. The wine was feathery and yet crisp but didn’t give a lot of flavor. If you like subtle wines you’ll go for this one. I finished the meal with slices of fresh pineapple; perhaps surprisingly the wine picked up strength and was round.

I tasted this wine with two cheeses; a marbled Cheddar and a sheep’s milk Feta. The cheddar let the Gavi present its nuanced layers; the cheese served well as a foil. With the Feta the wine had a fine, fine length. I’m not used to such good wine and cheese pairings.

Final verdict. I’m on the borderline between never again, and I’ll put this on my purchase again list. I guess that’s because I’m not committed to organic wine and for me cheese pairings are quite secondary. I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that a better producer would have made a fine wine. But then you would have to pay more.

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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