A Bandol Rosé

This appellation has great reds. And the rosés?...

La Cadiérenne

In the heart of Provence.

I am a real fan of Bandol AOC in its red version. In a sense I remember my first Bandol Rosé AOC that came in at twice today’s price. The wine employee asked me if I were familiar with that particular wine. Saying no, he recommended foregoing the bottle, which he found ordinary or some such word. I thanked him for what was probably excellent advice. I won’t tell you its name, but as soon as I saw a Bandol Rosé at today’s price I jumped at the chance.

Bandol is arguably the best wine in Provence, one of the few that can hold its own when compared to more prestigious French wine areas. Today’s wine comes from a co-operative founded in 1929 reuniting 37 winemakers with a total production of about 80, 000 barrels a year. Bandol is a chic seaside resort town home to the yachting set. Just 4 miles (6 kilometers) to the north lies la Cadière d’Azur, a medieval town on a limestone hill overlooking the Bandol vineyards. You’ll love it, as did Van Gogh. Fish is king here, friture (fried fish), bourride (fish stew), and bouillabaisse (best translated as bouillabaisse). They all should go well with Rosé Bandol, perhaps today’s version which, as is typical, is made from Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault red grapes. The companion wine is a rosé made from the latter two grapes in neighboring Languedoc-Roussillon at half the price.

Mourvèdre Grapes

Mourvèdre Grapes, the heart of red and rosé Bandol.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé AOC 2009 14.7% alcohol about $17

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Intense, expressive and pretty nose of sweet flowers, wild strawberries, watermelon, garrigue and mineral. Dry, medium bodied with a nice round mouthfeel and a ribbon of supporting acidity. Very tasty and refreshing, with impressive complexity. Culminates in a lingering, tangy, fruit- and mineral-infused finish. Will make a lovely sipper, or enjoy with herbed chicken, pan-fried fish, or a summer salad. (VINTAGES panel, May 2010). And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was mouth filling, long, and well balanced, tasting of minerals. The initial meal centered on an omelet brimming with chilies. Now this rosé tasted of light cherries and had refreshing acidity. With kasha (buckwheat groats) it almost exploded in my mouth. In response to okra, stewed tomatoes, and garlic, this Bandol was round and somewhat metallic.

My next meal was a commercial shepherd’s pie. This pink blend came close to elegance while accompanying the plebian meal. It had good length and balanced acidity. A liberal dousing with Louisiana hot sauce picked up the wine’s intensity. Light, almost frothy, meringue cookies softened the blend’s acidity.

My final meal was a boxed eggplant parmiagana on which I sprinkled lots of grated parmesan cheese. The wine combined well with the tomatoes in the sauce. It displayed softly bracing pleasant acidity. The rosé was metallic and mouth filling. With the dessert, fruit juice candy, it was subtle but long.

The cheese tasting was preceded with Matjes herring. This blend was multilayered, somewhat smoky, and dark for a rosé. It was excellent. Who would have thought that herring would pair so well? In response to sharp cheddar cheese the Bandol was mouth filling. When it met Swiss cheese, the wine was floral and multilayered with great length.

Final verdict. This wine is a definite yes, and I’m not even that great a fan of rosé. I guess the next step is to try to find a Bandol white. And the no, no rosé producer now offers a red at that same elevated price. Why should I take the chance?

Access the companion wine A $10 Provence Rosé Blend

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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