A Saint Emilion Grand Cru

Can you get a great Bordeaux at a relatively modest price?...

Chateau de Fonbel

We should start with a few clarifications. Saint-Emilion is a small, prestigious region of Bordeaux’s right bank. Saint-Emilion has been exporting wine for over eight centuries. White wine drinkers who want to go red should consider the local red wines. The term grand cru is actually the lowest level of the local fine wine classifications. For a spectacular wine you might try the nearby Château Ausone. Both wines share the same owner, the famous Alain Vauthier. Did I mention that Château Ausone usually runs into four figures? Don’t expect to see it reviewed here. However, should you wish to send me a bottle I will bend my rules and offer my unbiased opinion. Today’s companion wine is an inexpensive red blend from the center of Spain.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Alain Vauthier

Wine Reviewed Château de Fonbel Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2001 13 % alcohol about $25

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “The 2001 is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrique-aged for 12 months, the 2001 Château de Fonbel exhibits intense aromas of rich fruit and spiced oak. Ripe black and red fruits intermingle with black currants and damsons in the mouth and the silky texture is framed by leather and oak. This is a smooth, delicious and hard to resist now. Drink now-2011.” And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was weak but it built over time. The initial meal centered on a barbecued chicken leg. In response the wine was light with pleasant acidity. It was somewhat thin but long, tasting of chocolate, tobacco, and plums. When paired with a side dish of potatoes roasted in chicken fat this Bordeaux picked up strength and was quite round but the salt in my mouth seemed to come from the glass. Then came an oriental salad/salsa based on tomato, pimento, hot peppers, and garlic that gave the wine fine length and good acidity. The oak barrel was present and was definitely not overdone.

My next meal involved slow cooked beef ribs with potatoes and carrots. Now the wine was very powerful. It was chewy with chocolate. In response to the potatoes its acidity stepped up. I tasted black plums and the wine was thick. A generous dousing of Louisiana hot sauce featuring chile and lime on the meat barely affected the wine.

My final meal started with Japanese Wasabi crackers that rendered the wine long with round tannins. When paired with the shepherd’s pie this Bordeaux made me think of liquid oak, but in a good sense and I hate oak when it’s overdone. This Merlot/Cab was subtle with dark fruits. With that hot sauce the wine’s consistency increased.

The first cheese tasted was a herbed goat’s milk cheese. The wine responded with deep but not objectionable oak and I tasted blueberries. When paired with a Swiss cheese this Bordeaux darkened but only a bit. I was hardly surprised that it did not mesh when sipped with tortilla cheese chips.

Final verdict. Good, but not good enough. While I was happy with most of the pairings there are so many other Bordeaux in this and other price ranges to test. And my offer still holds to report on your Chateau Ausone. I’ll even throw in a contribution to the charity of your choice that might be considered generous under other circumstances.

Access the companion wine A $10 Red Blend From The Heart Of Spain

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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