A Victoria, Australia Marsanne

Have you tried Marsanne (white)?...

(Nearby?) Rutherglen Vineyard

Today’s wine comes from the major wine-producing area of Victoria in southeastern Australia. Rutherglen is famous, world famous, for fine dessert wines. Buller Wines has been in business since 1921. Talk about adversity, their second crop was completely destroyed by hail. This family winery is best known for fortified wines such as Vintage Port. I am told that the 1978 vintage is really great. Interestingly enough, their web site does not refer to this or other Marsanne wines. In case you don’t remember, Marsanne is a white grape that probably comes from the northern Rhðne Valley of southeastern France. It is a major component of the Crozes-Hermitage, one Rhðne Valley star. Marsanne is heavily grown in Australia, especially in the Golburn Valley not far from Rutherglen. Today’s companion wine is an inexpensive white from Rioja, Spain, arguably the best area for Spanish … reds.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Indigo Valley Marsanne 2005 13% alcohol about $20

Since there are no marketing materials let’s start by quoting the back label. “Marsanne has shown itself to be a proven performer in our Indigo Valley Vineyard, and this is undoubtedly our finest release to date. Pale straw in color, the wine is usually austere when young with subtle hints of lemon and honey on the palate. However with short to mid term cellaring the wine will develop the rich honeysuckle characters for which the variety is renowned.” And now for my review.

Marsanne Grapes

At the first sips I found this wine quite long and felt there was a bit too much oak. The centerpiece of my initial meal was spicy, baked barbecued chicken wings. The Marsanne was long and somewhat smoky. The oak remained but this wine was round. A side dish of baked eggplant sticks could not break through the oak juice flavor that got stronger and stronger over time, perhaps because the wine was warming. I did notice some honeysuckle. Fresh pineapple provided some smoke, but the wine mostly tasted of oak.

My next meal started with Japanese Wasabi crackers. The wine was flowery but that unwanted tree soon took over. In the presence of a boxed eggplant rolatini made with Ricotta and Mozzarella cheese that I doused with grated Romano, the Marsanne responded with decent acidity that failed to mesh with the dish’s tomatoes. The oak was somewhat tamed. With biscotti the wine’s acidity was sour.

My final meal was based on barbecued chicken legs. The wine tasted of pears and, you guessed it… Its acidity was good but once more as the meal went on the oak intensified. When paired with potatoes roasted in chicken fat, Victoria’s Marsanne responded with some smoke and caramel. The side oriental salad (more of a salsa), based on tomatoes, sweet pimentos, hot peppers, and garlic intensified the wine’s caramel. I hoped that it might tame the oak, but no.

As is my habit, if not my pleasure, I finished the tastings with two cheeses. First came a herbed goat’s milk cheese. The wine tried to be floral but came out oaky with a touch of caramel. When paired with a Swiss cheese the Marsanne was acidic and round with some smoke and a taste that rhymes with smoke.

Final verdict. I hate sounding like a broken record. But I tasted what I tasted, and I tasted it far too often. I won’t be trying this wine again. But I will seek out a Marsanne-based Crozes-Hermitage, which ironically may cost about the same.

Access the companion wine A $10 White From Rioja, Spain

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include    www.theworldwidewine.com    with a new weekly review of $10 wines and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com devoted to the issues of wine, weight loss, and health.

Visit his sites devoted to touring Italy and Italian food
www.travelitalytravel.com    and    www.fooditalyfood.com

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